I bought a Simple Centrifuge bowl about 8 months ago .. I started with Bud Pitts plans using a pressure cooker pot as a base .. I got half way through that process and junked it because there are some welding issues that are not fun but can be expensive.. Any how,I used the basic centrifuge plans that they offered and had a friend build/weld the pieces together after the basic cutting/fitting/machining .. He charged me $100 ... Way better way to go than the pressure pot way!! My bowl has no drain holes .. I ordered it that way as I could see that they would only cause problems underneath .. Simple Centrifuge has done a ton of development in bowl design .. The sealing situations below with the drain have caused a lot of problems ... The main problem has always been shaft sealing as without a bit of lubrication, most any type of seal will fail ...Any how with no holes, I just use a marine hand pump bilge tank and just suck all the oil in the bowl out then wipe the residue oil with rags .. There have been times when the residue was a bit tough to wipe out but a bit of extra effort gets it done..I DO NOT THINK THAT IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO REMOVE THE BOWL ANY MORE THAN ABSOLUTELY NECESSARY AS EVENTUALLY THE SMALL DRIVE AREA SURFACE MIGHT BE DAMAGED ENOUGH TO CAUSE THE BOWL TO RUN OUT OF TRUE >>> I heat the oil before centriuging to about 140 degrees ...The oil then passes through a 1/8" pipe to a cap in the bowl with a 1/16th hole drilled in it... Works nice!!

I run a 1982 Mercedes 240D and a 1982 Vw diesel pickup with centrifuged WVO and used ATF .. Honestly, I prefer the ATF straight as it does not leave the STICKY residue and burns without any additional heat or diesel needed ... Both of my vehicles use no extra heat except I do plug the engine's block heaters in for at least an hour or so before starting if the ambient residual temperature is below 35 degress as they start much easier ..(Have all of the stuff to make a single or a two tank sytem, but have not got there..So, I just calibrate the gel point of my WVO, add a corresponding amount of diesel and go .. ATF needs only a small amount of diesel to work best as it is already at about the viscosity of regular diesel fuel .... By the way, canola oil is absolutely the best as the jell point seems to be at about 33 degrees ... Soy bean oil is absolutely solid at about 36 degrees ..

I have designed and have used, a small portable centrifuge unit that works very nice but does not get all the super fine particulates out .. It is small enough to fit in a car trunk.. Weighs about 20 lbs ..It turns at 3450 Rpm ... Have been working to try to use a different motor that turns at about 5500 rpm ... At this speed, the final oil should be down to a micron or so .. It has been tough to get it balanced at that speed though .. Still going to work on it as it would be a super "TUFF" unit because of it's portability ..Keep up the good work!!

I've had my SCF for about 2.5 yrs now and have found it to clean quite well. Raw WVO had 675 ppm of water and after heating to 140F @ .5 gpm the water was 75 ppm. Car filters last about 10K miles. I don't take off the CF bowl to clean under the bowl. Most of the liquid oil flows out the bottom and looks pretty clean as junk goes. Going to put together a mobile open bowl CF to clean on the road. Have some rough sketches of how I want it set up. Time will tell if it really can work on the road.

Dragonfly, what are you using to test your water content?
Thanks,

The Sandy Brea Water Testing method.