No reason for the 150F other than that is what I set it to. I can turn it up higher but it starts to melt things. Check the specs on your PVC for working temperature, things could get soft on you but I like the idea. I would probably make it and see how it worked.

I don't like the idea of the drum heater as much as the inline heater. I think you will loose more heat and use more energy than an inline arrangement and not have as much control of the temperature. Also, the vertical heater acts as a water and solids trap that falls out of the heated oil. The drum heater should work though. I think I was getting condensation from water inside the oil and have since made some efforts to pre-clean before putting it through my system.

My setup is gravity fed, top tote to bottom tote. You are correct, I don't get all the oil from the top to flow into the bottom but most does.

So far the inside of the splash wall does not have build up. In fact it is really quite clean from the clean hot oil splashing on it. I have not even needed to wipe it down except for one time I let the bowl fill up and crud made it past.

Leon

I got started on my project and thought i would share. I leveraged heavily on Leon plans.

The theme of my project is a no-weld solution primarily because I simply do not have access to welding equipment and wanted to do the entire project myself with some basic shop tools. Nothing fancier than an air grinder and a couple of pipe taps (cheap Harbor Freight quality).

My hope is it use the simple centrifuge bowl but stay as cheap as I can with safety in mind.

Here is a link to a PhotoBucket blog album:

http://s304.photobucket.com/albums/nn165/FastCote/Centrifuge%20Project/

Thanks again Leon for your design and support,

Ben

Nice work Ben. I was considering using cooking pots from a local restaurant supply store. I think a large pressure cooker would be ideal for the outer bowl as it will have locking lid with seal. I didn't see how you were planning on doing the lid.

Also, I noticed that Simple Centrifuge changed their bowl design some to accommodate the trans torque key bushing. I got a seal, a nut and a lock bushing. I don't quite see how the new arrangement works. If you could illustrate the new arrangement that would be great. Also, is that a custom part or an off the shelf component.

Thanks for the reference on your pictures. Let me know when you get it all together I would like to add your design to the forum directly.

Other note to readers: We found a source for the motor for $130 plus shipping. I will update the documentation soon.



Leon

I'll try to show using a couple of pics.

There is an inner and outer bushing:



The inner bushing is threaded. When you tighten the nut on top the inner bushing squeezes on the shaft AND also draws up, pushing the outer bushing causing it to hold the bowl. Simple. The key seems that is as close to dead-nuts-on concentric as you can get.

another pic:

Forgot to mention...

As for the lid, i scrounged a couple of pieces
of clear acrylic - I really want to be able to see whats going on..

I am going to copy the design from one of the user submitted designs:

http://www.simplecentrifuge.com/gallery-image-79.html

I am not going to bolt it like he did though. I have a little home made CNC machine so I thought I would machine a small recess exactly matching the diameter of the pot so it wont slide around, then use the spring clamps like in your design.

By the way, I would be flattered for you to add my project. I used PhotoBucket as a sort of blog but would love to see it on your site. It is, after all, 90% your design. I really hope this no-weld approach works as well as I think. Many people out there do not have access to MIG/TIG nor the skill to do it.