Dragonfly
can you expand on the double glazed solar panel?
I know what double glazed glass is, but do you have any other suggestions to build a SC? What type of pipe do you use, reflective surface behind the pipe, etc...

As suggested, drop by a solar collector company that installs them. Usually they will have a cut-a-way section of the collector they are selling. The cheap construction will not have a very good bond between the pipe and the flat metal that is painted black. The better constructed ones have a copper pipe that snaps into a 4" or 6" x 8' strip -like a "U" channel with teeth on top. It will hold the copper pipe tightly therefore the pipe will absorb the most heat. Another item to question is the black paint. All paints aren't the same for solar panels! There is a special paint just for that purpose. Ask for the name of the paint company and do some research. The double glazed glass is the same in theory, but not filled with a gas, in retaining heat in your home. The idea behind it is the top pane won't allow as much heat to escape back into the air. A well insulated underside of the panel will also stop heat loss. Most quality panels are made with extruded aluminum sides, well screwed together, caulked all the way around and rubber gasket around the glass. Mass production has made them somewhat inexpensive. The less expensive panels use a plastic (instead of glass) that will fail (fog up) and not allow the sun rays to penetrate and heat the interior/metal/pipes. I've found several used collectors that were taken off homes that were still in working condition and no leaks in the pipe. Hope the above helps.

Thanks DragonFly
I appreciate your comments.
I guess it is all about using better materials and not cheaping out. Can't remember, are you currently using a solar collector? I know others have commented on the temp that the oil gets to, what is your experience in the temperature differential with sunny and cloudy days?
Just to keep my brain going, what size a pipe do you use for your SC? I assume it is not just PVC, but black pipe?
Do you use a circulation pump and is it specially made for the high temps?
Thanks again, Vern

Vern,
A year ago, a Greater San Diego (CA) Greaser member and I were looking at using a 4'x10' panel to heat the oil in his system. At the time, I really wasn't interested in making a solar heater for my filtration system. Since helping him construct, pipe and put into his filtration system, I now have a solar collector available to me. The piping is 3/4" PVC to the collector's 1" copper inlet and outlet. The high temps don't seem to bother the PVC and DOESN'T react to WVO (the HOT WATER PVC pipe will react and the joints will pull apart. A 1/4 hp clear water pump is used to get the VO up the 10' to the panel. It gravity falls into the same 55 gal drum the is supplies the panel but the output pipe directs the hot oil to a 5 micron sock suspended over the open 55. If the sock should plug, the oil will spill over the edge into the same 55. Hasn't plugged yet after 5 hrs of circulation. The oil can be redirected to any of 4 other large drums or 275 gal totes. I plan to almost duplicate the system with one exception. The hot oil will be pumped up at 1/2 gal /min and gravity into my bowl centrifuge then to other storage drums or a 275 gal tote. Using the solar panel is a very cheap way to heating the oil over the long haul.

Thanks for the added info
I am a bit confused by what you said. "The high temps don't seem to bother the PVC and DOESN'T react to WVO (the HOT WATER PVC pipe will react and the joints will pull apart." Do you mean ABS vs. PVC or is there a different type of PVC for hot water? Reason I ask is I have never heard of more than one type of PVC.
Again thanks for the input... We really want to lower our carbon footprint at the facility and this would be a great way of saving energy too!

Vern

Hey Vern, I missed that also. There is a CPVC, which is for hot water. I was curious about the copper, doesn't copper breakdown with vo or am I thinking of something else?
Jack