Just read through your download. great list of stuff and thanks for the sources

I like you setup you have and have started doing the same setup you have to the dot. Now for the electrical part. Is there anyway you can be a little more descriptive in the electrical schematic for us folks (myself) that are not that bright in this area. I have the basic electical wiring schematic skills, but I need to know if you could provide us with the relay contact discriptions as well (ex. which is 85, 87 and so on). Thanks in advance your hard work on this.

I am working on a document that will give detail on the installation along with a description of what each component does. I am a mechanical engineer so I really struggled with the electrical component. However, it it the part that I am the most proud of and offers value in automation above most systems.

The software that I used to draw the schematic did not allow for pin call outs but most relays will have a schematic with pins call outs on the packaging. Standard automotive relay schematics shouldn't be to hard to find online and you can match it up with the schematic I have provided.

If you have specific questions about the operation of the system or a specific component, send it on and I will address it.

I will let you know when I get the first draft of the complete document done. In the mean time, know that it takes everyone a fair amount of time to walk through the logic of an electrical controler.

Leon

Leon, you are the man.

I just finished the install, total cost was roughly $800, I already had a tank in the bed, and its not automated yet, just a human controlled switch and purge button.

Getting to the passenger rear fuel port to put in the check valve was difficult. I had to remove the down pipe. Everything else is not all that bad. The conversion works great, I probably have about 80 miles on it so far. Very nice.

You gotta remove the accessory brackets on both sides. One holds the AC unit on the passenger side, and the other holds the alternator and the ps pump.

good luck to everyone attempting the install. It took me 5 days off and on, probably a total of 20 hours.

Leon,

I wrote a long post but it got erased so i am going to give you the readers digest version:

1. THANKS SO MUCH FOR THIS COMPILATION! You have put into words, diagrams, scematics, and practice almost the exact system i have come up with. Our roots are in the same system and i am excited to see this all spelled out.

2. I see no heat Hose on Hose, or Hose in Hose. Is this correct? This goes against all i have ever learned. (But hey, i have seel alot of guys with 6 way valves on powerstrokes too!!!)

3. I am in the coldest region of the Adirondack mountains... -30 for 20 days is not uncommon. Would you suggest some kind of "circulation mode" or perhaps just a extended purge time to ensure that wvo is purged from all the way back to the purge valve instead of just clear of the heads?

Thanks in advance!!!!

~Yergi In NY

Yergi,
I don’t think hose in hose is necessary even for you. I would simply wrap the coolant and fuel lines together in an insulating tape or insulation and tape. Whatever you have available that will stand up to the elements. For a Ford, we are just trying to keep the Fuel liquid to get it to the engine. I like the idea of a hose in hose but I have not seen a practical solution that would take care of everything. At best they are just a local heat exchanger, ie Frybrid. I have been considering designing a coupler that would be compatible with 1” coolant line and 3/8” JIC where you could build your own but haven’t really pushed it yet. If anyone has a good HIH product out there I would be interested in seeing it.

Leon